Break-up Lab
Microorganisms fill gaps in textile recycling processes
The Break-up Lab is dedicated to the end of an emotional relationship: that between the textile and its previous owners. Through biotechnological processes, the polyester content in used textiles can be broken down, and the recovered building blocks can then be metabolized into a biodegradable plastic (PHA). Yarns and add-ons made from PHA facilitate the easier separation of impurities and enable fiber-to-fiber recycling. Two circular clothing items showcase the aesthetic and functional potentials. Additionally, the Break-up Lab establishes a transparent infrastructure for the collection of used textiles: the MEC Collection System.
student: | Sophia Reißenweber |
mentored by: | Prof. Mareike Gast |
year: | 2024 |
level: | Master Thesis |
Polyester fibers are already present in two out of three garments and the global demand for synthetic textiles continues to rise. Significant amounts of non-renewable resources and energy are consumed in their production. Additionally, the accumulation of used textiles is increasing rapidly. The growing number of fiber blends further complicates recycling.
The Break-up Lab focuses on the end of an emotional relationship: that between the textile and its previous owners. In collaboration with local research institutes and textile recycling actors, the lab develops sustainable recycling processes for used textiles with a polyester fiber component. Through the enzyme PHL7, polyester fibers can be split in a biotechnological process within minutes. The recovered basic building blocks of the polymer are then metabolized bacterially into a biodegradable plastic (PHA).
The Break-up Lab produces yarns and add-ons from PHA, enabling the separation of contaminants and thus resource-efficient fiber-to-fiber recycling processes. Using two garments, it is demonstrated how this process can close regional material loops for used textiles in the future. The components of the shirt are connected by PHA seams, allowing the construction to be disassembled after the end of use and reassembled individually. A jacket made solely from PHA showcases the design, economic, and ecological potentials of PHA. Furthermore, the Break-up Lab develops holistic approaches for the implementation of EU-approved guidelines. Through the MEC collection system, consumers can take on the pre-sorting of their used textiles themselves. The transparent infrastructure for collecting discarded clothing also raises awareness of fiber compositions and informs about the further life cycle of textiles.